I <3 David Černý

I fell in love with the work of Czech artist David Černý on January 15 2009, when his masterpiece, Entropa, was unveiled in Brussels. It is tradition for the country holding the EU presidency to exhibit a work of art, so I was very anxious to see what the Czech Republic would do. Entropa was anything but conventional. This giant sculpture depicts a literally disjointed European Union with each country represented by some form of stereotype or historical dig. Of course this created a huge uproar, but for those who are familiar with the work of David Černý this was really no surprise at all. 

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/in_pictures/7827747.stm

As I followed the story of Entropa in the news prior to leaving to study abroad, I became excited to see more of David Černý’s work. I was happy to discover his work is all over the city. 

One of my favorite sculptures of his is located in Prague 5 in front of the Ministry of Justice. In 1991, a soviet tank still stood in this location as a memorial to the war. Černý painted this historic tank hot pink. The memorial looked like the Barbie car I coveted in the second grade, but what makes the story even better is that, according to one of my professors, when the police asked him what he was doing Černý told them it was an art project for school. The officers ended up helping him paint the tank pink! Nonetheless,he was arrested shortly after because his art as considered vandalism. This stunt brought Černý into the spotlight.  I love that a piece of the pink tank is still standing today.

The “tower babies” are another example of Černý’s genius. During the Soviet occupation of the Czech Republic, a television tower was built to supposedly block bbc radio and radio free Europe. The Czechs hated the modern structure, claiming it ruined the skyline and was a legacy of the Soviet occupation. In 2000 Černý added babies climbing up the tower as a temporary exhibit. Opinion about the tower changed drastically. The climbing babies gave the tower a surrealist look and Černý’s work was met with great applause. I personally love this sculpture because of its size, its symbolism and its turning something so hated into something so loved. Look at the babies and decide what you think they mean and why you think they were put there. My friends and I each have our own ideas. Whenever we walk by, we tend to argue over the nature of the babies. I used to think they represent that although the Czech nation is small it can achieve great heights. haha! But I knew this is too simple to be what Černý meant, so I dug a little deeper. My current belief is that the babies are ants and show what can happen when people follow along and do not stand up for themselves. They end up small and with a huge ugly tower built by an invading country. I’m still working on it, haha, but I think this sculpture is really cool because it makes me think.

The reason I have decided to blog about Černý is because I have been thinking about why the Czechs love him so much. In my opinion, it is because he is so Czech himself, especially in the sense of humor of his sculptures. The Czechs have not had an easy history; nevertheless, they have developed a thick skin and great sense of humor to deal with the hard times. Černý’s art isn’t meant to be nice. The goal is to evoke emotion, play with satire and bring attention to stereotypes. For instance, one of Černý’s most famous works is a statue of St. Wenchelas, the patron saint of Prague, riding an upside down horse. That is THE PATRON SAINT OF PRAGUE!  Another one of his statures depicts two men urinating into a puddle the same shape of the Czech Republic. What other nation would tolerate such statues? Can you imagine a statue George Washington riding an upside down horse in D.C.? Can you imagine a sculpture of two men urinating into a puddle shaped
like America? I think not. Černý’s art epitomizes the Czech love for controversy, want freedom of expression, and emphasizes the Czech’s individual sense of humor. This brings me to another point-- how did the Czech President think Černý would come up with something traditional and non controversial for the Eu exhibit? Has he ever been to Prague and seen Černý's work? haha. 

If your curious, check him out… his stuff is really worth a look. 

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/in_pictures/7827747.stm

http://www.davidcerny.cz/

Looking back: My Journey Through Prague’s Eats…

When I first arrived in Prague , it seemed that no matter what I ordered I always ended up with some combination of three ingredients: ham, cheese and potato. I would stop to buy a potato pancake on the way home from school and find it stuffed with ham. I would order ham at a restaurant and find it smothered in cheese. You have no idea what is like to order a vegetable soup end up with a milky puree of potato, cheese and ham. I began to get angry… enough is enough! I knew Prague must have more to offer…

 

I then discovered the joys of eating on the street. I was amazed by the different types of sausages, the cheap prices and the delicious mustard. Another perk is the rapid speed at which the meal is served. I felt my cholesterol go through the roof. Since sausage isn’t healthy enough to eat several times a week, I kept searching. It seemed like a salad and international cuisine were out of the question.

 

What I did not realize at the time is that Prague is an international city with great international food. I was under the impression that food like I was used to at home could not be found. After speaking to some Czech friends, I learned that they often dine out at Japanese, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern restaurants. One my Czech friends introduced me to Czech- Mex . As a lover of Tex-Mex, I was really excited to try it out. It was sooo good but sooo different. Feta is often used instead of cheddar and paprika is sprinkled on everything. Also, nothing is spicy no matter how manychilli peppers are next to an item on a menu. I’ve noticed the Czechs spice meat, especially chicken, in a very different way then I am used to.

 

Once I gained courage, I tried more of the diverse food Prague has to offer.  I discovered an incredible Indian restaurant with the best curried chicken I’ve ever had outside of Edison , NJ , a tasty Italian place with $5 dollar personal pizza that can almost rival a Virginia slice (sorry, Prague , your pizza is not quite at the NYC level yet) and a solid Chinese restaurant with great noodle and vegetable dishes.

 

So what have I learned from this? I learned I have to be more adventurous in trying out a country’s cuisine. In many of my weekend trips I have made a conscious effort to try food I would normally not consider. Trying out new foods has actually been one of the best parts of my travels. I’ll always remember the sacherdorte in Vienna , the pepper soup in Budapest and the bratwurst of Prague ’s Old town square. Additionally, I learned that just because I’m in the Czech Republic I do not only have to eat Czech food. Similar to how many Americans do not enjoy McDonald’s, many Czech people do not like pilsner goulash. My previous ways of thinking were small minded and stereotypical. From my experiences with my Cezch peers, I have found that Czechs are just like Americans in that they are open to all types of food and enjoy sampling other nation’s cuisine.

 

Poland (2)

When I was in Poland I visited the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camps. Every time I sat down to write a blog about the second part of my trip I felt overwhelmed and unable to organize my emotions about this intense experience. Now, several weeks later, I feel prepared to blog about the concentration camps responsible for 1.1 million deaths in the Holocaust. 90% of those who died were Jewish.

“Work will set you free.” How many times have we all seen this gate? We’ve seen it on the pages of history books, in the background of WW2 movies, and information pamphlets about the holocaust. It seems the image is ingrained into our memories as a symbol evoking sadness, pain and compassion.  In class we learn how many of the camp’s victims believed the saying—they thought if they worked hard they would be set free. But we all know what met so many on the other of that gate: torture, gas chambers, slavery, starvation, disease and inhumanity. As I walked through that gate I immediately got the chills. I could not help but think of all the people who walked through that gate confused, scared and hungry. I could not help but think of all the people who walked through that gate and never got to walk out. Thoughts raced through my head. My stomach dropped. I was in Auschwitz.

Since 1947 the concentration camp has been arranged as a museum. Each building is dedicated to explaining some aspect of the camp. There was one building that showed the living quarters of prisoners of Auschwitz. It was sickening to see a small room and read that over 1,000 people used to sleep there. I could not even picture how 100 people could sleep in that room let alone 1000. Another building displayed “evidence” of the crimes committed by Nazis at Auschwitz. The Nazis tried extremely hard to cover up the true nature of death camps, causing some to believe the holocaust did not actually occur. The proof in the museum is designed to leave no question in anyone’s mind as to the atrocities committed there. This was one of the most unsettling parts of the tour. The “evidence” was displayed as rooms full of hair shaved off victims, glasses, shoes, suitcases, toothbrushes, walking canes and other personal effects. I had to sit down. I had read countless books and historical accounts of how the Nazis dehumanized their prisoners, but seeing an entire room filled with hair shaved off victims was more intense than anything I imagined. I also began to feel so angry that this room was called “evidence.” How could someone not believe the holocaust happened?

(This picture is of the remains of the chamber at Birkenau.)

Other parts of the museum displayed history of the victims and survivors, history of the Polish resistance against the Nazis and history of the different countries that lost people at Auschwitz. I saw walls where thousands of people were shot, poles where thousands of people were hung and gas chambers where millions of people perished. I wanted to shut my eyes and stop seeing everything around me. My heart did not stop racing the whole time. 

I am so thankful to have had the opportunity to visit Auschwitz. As a Jewish individual, as a person of Polish decent, as a history major and as a citizen of the world I cannot think of a more educational place to visit. Visiting Auschwitz is not only important for remembering the holocaust and honoring those who died there, but it is important for learning compassion and awareness. 

As we were leaving the camp, our tour guide said something very moving. “After visiting Auschwitz you must realize that any hardness you encounter in your life will be nothing compared to what those who were here experienced. You must appreciate each day you live freely and realize how fortunate you are.” 

Poland (part 1)

When I decided I would be spending a semester in Prague with AIFS, I immediately became excited for my trip to Krakow. I am a quarter Polish and the first person to return since my family emigrated four generations ago.  

Krakow, unlike the majority of Poland, did not suffer much damage in WW2. As a result, the buildings are well preserved and original. Seeing the historic churches, beautiful market square and Wawel castle were only some of the highlights. Krakow was formally the capital of Poland and served as the center of art, science and culture. This is evident by the amazing artwork and incredible architecture literally everywhere you look.  For example, the altar in The Church of the Virgin Mary is said to be the world’s greatest gothic sculpture. It was made by the woodcarver Weit Stross in the 16^th century and is one of the most beautiful sculptures I have ever seen. The city is also home to the second oldest university in Central Europe (after Charles University in Prague).  

There were several things that really surprised me about Krakow.

First, I don’t know why, but I expected Krakow to be extremely traditional. I knew the city would be extremely beautiful, but the juxtaposition of modernity and gothic architecture caught me off guard. The city is surrounded by a huge gothic fortification system leading to a central market place, but the streets leading up to the central market are lined with stores such as H&M, Sephora and NIKE. I did not know Poland would have such modern stores. I felt like I could have been in any American mall, which disappointed me. I was hoping to see traditional Polish stores selling traditional Polish goods.

Second, I was beyond excited to try traditional Polish cuisine. On the bus to Krakow, I was shocked to discover that half the people on my program had never tried a pierogi. Pierogies are one of my favorite foods, so naturally I told everyone on the bus that they had to try them. I also added in that my mom made the best pierogies in the world. Little did I know that might actually be true! The pierogies and potato pancakes in Krakow were only okay-- definitely not anywhere near as good as my mother’s. Maybe they are just the type of food that are best made in the house by your mom… the type of food Polish people would never order out. Whatever the reasons for the subpar pierogis were, I am definitely looking forward to having some of my mom’s when I return home.

Third, I was surprised by how similar the Czech and Polish languages are. I probably should have seen this one coming. After two weeks of language instruction and two months in Prague, I could make out street signs and random words.  This made me feel connected to the Slavic culture and allowed me to get around town with ease.

As you can probably tell, one of my favorite parts of visiting new places is learning the unique stories that have been passed down through the generations. I feel these stories are an important part of the city’s psyche and crucial to understanding the history and culture of the city. Krakow is home to so many of these stories.  So I will conclude this post with a few for you.

The Church of the Virgin Mary, built in the 13th century, has two towers of differing heights. The towers were built by two brothers after the church was destroyed (along with the rest of the city) in the Tartar siege. In a typical sibling rivalry, the brothers competed to see who could make the bigger and better tower. When the left tower was declared better, the losing brother stabbed and killed the winning brother with a knife. This knife now hangs on a chain in the center of town in memory of the rivalry of the two brothers.

The Kazimierz  district of Krakow is home to the oldest surviving synagogue in Poland. It was built in the 1400’s and served as the center of Jewish life in Krakow until WW2. It now exists as a museum. The building is a reminder to many of the once thriving Jewish population of Krakow. Before WW2 over 3 million Jews lived in Poland, now only 5,000 to 10,000 people of Jewish faith reside in the country (mostly in Warsaw). 

To end on a lighter note, this statue of a dog tells a story of how faithful man’s best friend can truly be. Apparently a man was walking his dog in the park one day when he had a heart attack, was taken to the hospital and died. The dog refused to move from the spot where his master fell to the ground for a full year. Word of this faithful dog spread around Krakow, so many came to bring food and water. After a year the dog was adopted by another owner and lived happily ever after. The statue was built to commemorate the dog’s loyalty.

Where am I from?

My whole life I have lacked pride of nationality. While most of my friends from back home proudly displayed their Irish, Italian, Indian or Pakistani roots in the form of tattoos, t-shirts, and license plates, I sat quietly and avoided the “where am I from” question. Even though I am not the type of girl who would ever get a tattoo, I still felt like I was missing out. I was. Being Jewish, I assumed I was from somewhere in Eastern Europe, but none of my family ever bothered to tell me where. I never bothered to ask. As the prospect of study abroad morphed from dream to reality, I began to realize the extent of my ignorance. I truly wanted to study in a country that would connect me to my ancestors. But, one key question remained. Where am I from? 

I recently discovered the answer to that question is quite complex. Most of my family fled Central and Eastern Europe, attempting to avoid the anti-Semitic politics of the late 19th and early 20th century leaders. They witnessed governments that suppressed their culture and took away their rights. It is not like I never thought about my nationality. As I sat in European history class in seventh, ninth, and twelfth grade, I did wonder the role of my ancestors in history. When I read of the reforms of Joseph II and Ferdinand II, I thought of how they must have impacted the lives of Jews living in Austria-Hungary. As I learned about the Holocaust, I realized I have many relatives and ancestors that must have perished under Hitler’s rule. I now know I am Hungarian, Polish, Russian, Romanian, Lithuanian and Austrian, but I still do not know why it took so long for me to learn this. I hoped my study abroad experience would help me define my identity. It has.

 I have found studying abroad in Prague to be the perfect vehicle for learning about my culture, my history, and myself. To walk in the footsteps of one’s ancestors is an eye-opening event that most government and history majors, and people, seldom have the opportunity to experience. These next few posts will be dedicated to places I have visited that relate to this quest. I hope you find these posts both enjoyable and educational.  

 

Home Sweet Prague

I have officially been in Prague for a month. It’s amazing. Each day I learn so many new things about Czech history and culture, life in Europe and myself. My study abroad experience has gone above and beyond my academic expectations for this semester. My classes are exciting and challenge me to think in new ways. The readings are fascinating and allow me to understand more fully the Czech reaction to various events in the history of the world.

When I sat down to write this blog, it just occurred to me that I have not yet told you what exactly I’m studying here in Prague. I am learning about the impact of World War II, communism and the Soviet invasion on the arts, culture and lives of the Czech people. As a result, my classes focus on the history of Prague, the politics of Eastern Europe, contemporary Czech literature and alternative lifestyles in Eastern Europe. What I really enjoy about this combination of history, government, and literature courses is that the classes allow me to see the topics I study at William and Mary from a Czech and European perspective. Also, the discussions in my small classes with European students and European Professors have made me realize how American my ways of thinking are. Studying abroad has proven to me the need to think outside the box.

I love the fact that I can read Prague’s newspaper (the English version) and relate it to class discussion, reading or previous courses I have taken at WM. Everything is so interesting. I just can’t get enough. I feel so much more at home in Prague now that I am familiar with the language and have studied the history of the country. Maybe this means I am finally immersed in the culture. Prague feels like home and I love it.

Miscellaneous Moravian Stories

Brno is home to 60,000 university students. It is located in the Czech province of Moravia and is the second largest city in the Czech Republic. A friend of mine called it “communism painted over in pretty colors.” I whole heartedly disagree. I found Brno to be a unique and beautiful city filled with exquisite architecture and friendly people. 

Brno is also a city of interesting stories. I will share a few with you…

There are lots of churches in the Czech Republic. Everywhere you look there are Baroque churches, Gothic churches, and NeoGothic-transitional-Romanesque churches redone in the contemporary renaissance style. I guess you catch my drift. In Brno there was an architectural battle between the Czech and German churches. The Germans were frustrated by the Czech’s gaudy Baroque church dominating the Brno skyline, so they built a bigger and more modern gothic masterpiece to show up the Czechs. What makes the story funny is that the steeple of the German church prominently features an angel mooning (showing his bare bottom) the Czech church across the way.  How hilarious is that?! I don’t think I’ll ever see a church with more attitude. 

The Brno town government used to be notoriously corrupt. At the Brno town hall there is this crazy sculpture over the entry way. The sculpture is crooked because the town neglected to pay the architect his promised salary. The artist intended for the sculpture to serve as a permanent reminder of how crooked the politicians of Brno were. 

The town of Brno has a series of caverns that run underneath the city. Dragons are said to guard the caverns to keep people out and protect the city.  As a result, the dragon is the unofficial mascot of the city.  Brno is a little obsessed with Dragons. But even cooler, the city of Brno opens up the caverns and allows the public explore the caves once a year. How crazy is that? Too bad we were not in Brno that weekend!

I never knew there was a rivalry between Brno and Prague in the Czech Republic. When speaking to some Brno locals about my experience thus far in the Czech Republic, they asked me what I was doing in their city. I answered, “I’m just here to sight see.” The table of Brno locals was severely offended. I tried to explain myself, but I was completely unaware of the cultural miscommunication that just occurred. Later that day, when I was explaining what happened to an AIFS staffer, I learned of this rivalry. While the Brno vs. Prague rift is nowhere near as severe as the East Coast vs. West Coast battles of Biggie and Pac, it is still a pretty serious rivalry. The locals did not understand what I meant by “sightseeing,” as tourism is a relatively new phenomenon in the city. They thought I was belittling Brno since I currently live in Prague. Brno people are extremely proud of their city, just as they should be. I guess I know for next time… It’s just kind of a shame I did not get to convey to the locals how much I enjoyed Brno.